Homme Plissé: A Nomadic Journey Through Self-Expression and Exploration Under the Tuscan Sun

CallanFashion2025-06-238450

As the twilight descended upon the city of Florence, the Issey Miyake sub-brand Homme Plissé embarked on its latest peripatetic voyage of inspiration. Founded by the late Issey Miyake in 2013, the brand made its debut on the Paris menswear calendar in 2019. However, in January of this year, Plissé’s place in the Parisian sun was handed to the newer Miyake sub-brand, IM Men. This prompted the Homme Plissé team to touch down in Florence, where they will now adopt a nomadic schedule of self-presentation, rambling here and there to connect with local markets and explore new forms of self-expression.

The collection was presented in the garden of the Villa Medicea della Petraia, a fine old house in the hills outside of the city. Before the show began, visitors were treated to an exhibition in the building’s covered courtyard that contextualized the collection as the result of a team research trip around Italy. The colors of lemons and tomatoes, the process of painting, and the art of traveling light were all alluded to, first in the display and then on the runway.

The mixed paint facemasks, paintbrush pockets, and outerwear pieces with integrated coathangers were all whimsical allusions back to that research process. So too were the abundant juicy shades in which some of these typically fluid Homme Plissé pieces were presented. The models crunched a route between islands of sun-parched lawn on the gravel paths of the villa’s ornamental garden. Serendipitously, a system of sprinklers opened up mid-way into the show, generating refracted rainbows in the summer air. Along the way, there seemed to be a few Medici-related renaissance allusions dropped in—deconstructed breeches, jerkins, and smocks—as well as patterns based on a creatively mixed-up palette.

The Homme Plissé models walked the finale just at the beginning of sunset, heading off towards the who-knows-where and when of this brand’s next chapter of self-expression. The collection was a testament to the brand’s nomadic spirit and its willingness to explore new horizons.