This Italian Island Has All the Charm of Capri (and Better Food!)—Without the Crowds

The islands in the Gulf of Naples have long been a refuge for Italians. Capri, in particular, draws a disproportionate share of the attention from international travelers. When summer rolls in, the crowds—a mix of European glitterati, New York high society, and clout chasers from around the world—rush to the Pearl of the Mediterranean. By July, you can barely snag a sun lounger at La Fontelina or a dinner reservation at Da Paolino, let alone a hotel room. But the glitzy hotspot is far from the only azure-ringed rock to find volcanic scenery, hand-painted ceramics, and sunset aperitivo.

A more down-to-earth alternative to its selfie-magnet neighbor, Ischia is a place Neapolitans know and love. Though it has stayed relatively under the radar as far as the vast majority of globetrotters are concerned. Thermal springs, glimmering beaches, incredible food, and a relaxed charm make it the ideal destination for travelers looking for a quintessential Italian summer vacation that hasn’t been compromised by throngs of tourists or the limelight.

After decades in the shadow of Capri, Ischia is slowly but surely claiming its rightful place in the Mediterranean sun. Even as the 18-square-mile Tyrrhenian island continues its steady climb to the top of savvy vacation itineraries, it retains a rugged beauty and a sense of authenticity that have long lured devotees, ensuring its laid-back pace, sun-drenched simplicity, and spirit remain intact.

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From soaking in thermal springs to savoring fresh seafood, here’s how to plan the perfect trip to low-key Ischia.

Where to Stay in Ischia

Courtesy of Regina Isabella

Ischia might not have the high-profile scene of Capri, but its small clutch of charismatic hotels celebrates la dolce vita in a tasteful and wonderfully traditional way. Most of the five-star properties on the island are up in the hills. By contrast, Regina Isabella offers the ease and walkability of a waterfront position in the commune of Lacco Ameno. Built by Angelo Rizzoli and completed in 1956, the classic stay oozes Mediterranean refinement.

The hand-painted tiles, Murano glass chandeliers, and vintage furnishings reflect its rich heritage and history (Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton checked in back in the day). The 128-key resort also features two sandy beaches, jetties equipped with chairs and umbrellas, an outdoor heated saltwater pool, tennis courts, and its own dock. The grand dame is perhaps most famous for its spa, complete with indoor thermal pools and a menu of treatments ranging from facials to body wraps. And as the hot summer days extend into evening, you’ll find well-dressed guests enjoying aperitivo with local biancolella white wine and bar snacks (chips, olives, Parmesan cheese, and almonds) in the terrace garden before heading to the gourmet restaurant, Indaco, for dinner.

When Pellicano Hotels (of Hotel Il Pellicano fame) took over and completely revamped an old 16th-century watchtower on the northwest tip of Ischia, it ushered in a new era of haute hospitality, bringing notoriety in elite circles and more than a few big-name guests to the island. Despite its popularity and polished charm, Mezzatorre is still very much a place to unwind. Secluded in the green hills, overlooking a gleaming bay, it has a wonderful spa powered by cult-favorite European beauty brands like Biologique Recherche and Augustinus Bader, detoxifying mud treatments, and a separate thermal area.

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Blue-and-white striped umbrellas dot the craggy decks. The pool and sea duke it out as the most splendid spot to cool off. Rooms exude a tailored breeziness with crisp linens and a Mediterranean palette. The bars and restaurants—including La Baia for Campagna cuisine and sparkling vistas—continue the attractive aesthetics. There’s also a boutique stocked with fashionable frocks and exclusive merch.

Where to Eat and Drink in Ischia

Courtesy of Lisola

If Capri is a feast for the eyes, Ischia (while still breathtakingly beautiful in its own volcanic right) is better described as a feast for the tastebuds. A favorite of Neapolitans and visitors from around the world, Lisola is renowned for its classic and signature pizzas made with fresh, local ingredients, plus dishes such as Ischian-style rabbit. It also gives diners a front-row seat to some of the prettiest sunset sweeps around.

Set in the hills of Lacco Ameno, Le Stufe Osteria & Cucina serves incredible food and warm ambiance. You can sit outside on the candle-lit terrace and dig into tuna tartare, fried shrimp, and fresh pasta. Ristorante Deus Neptunus Ischia continues its decades-long reign of deliciousness in lockstep with its whitewashed surroundings in the picturesque village of Sant'Angelo.

Teetering on the rocks and the sea, in a location that’s only accessible by boat, Ristorante i Pirati is a must for fresh fish, spaghetti a la vongole, and house wine with peaches (you’ll see a pitcher of the signature drink on nearly every table). The mussels and spaghetti alla pomodoro make the trek up to Taverna Pietro Paolo Detto Stalino well worth the effort. The perfect meal at this homestyle eatery ends with zeppole.

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Ischia is lined with golden beaches, and the majority of them play host to an easygoing restaurant or snack bar with great food. While most people go to Da Nicola for a quick and easy pizza lunch in between playing in the sea and catching rays, the real MVP move is the focaccia bruschetta—fresh tomatoes, garlic chunks, and olive oil atop a bubbly, perfectly doughy crust.

Summer in Italy means gelato. Gasparotto Gelato scoops the most delicious artisanal, housemade sweet treats. Flavors change regularly and include hits like dark chocolate with lemon zest and tiramisu.

What to Do in Ischia

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Ischia is home to six communes and several smaller villages. Sant'Angelo earns praise for its whitewashed good looks. Ischia Porto, the commercial center, buzzes with taverns, bars, and boat arrivals, while historic Ischia Ponte is known for its ancient castle and time-worn charm. Forio attracts tourists with its beautiful beaches and cobbled core. Small in size but big on photo opps, Lacco Ameno is home to sandy shores, souvenir ceramics shops, and "Il Fungo" (aka mushroom rock, pictured above). Serrara Fontana makes a strong case for adventuring inland.

Large swaths of the coast are lined with beaches studded with restaurants and snack bars that rent out chairs and umbrellas. Nonnas catch rays while the next generation frolics in the water. Spiaggia dei Maronti and Spiaggia di San Montano are two of the most popular. It’s easy to cruise around until an attractive stretch calls and grab a spot. If you’re looking for a more exclusive experience, Giardino Eden Beach Club supplies an atmospheric rock perch with shade-giving palapas and access to the emerald-hued waters.

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Of late, Ischia has started making waves as a wellness destination. Though Italians from all over the boot-shaped nation have long known about the restorative properties of its geothermal waters. There are natural springs across the island as well as upscale hotel spas (available to external guests with advance booking) and a handful of thermal parks. The largest, Poseidon Therme Park, is a giant spa-for-all oasis with 20 thermal and seawater pools, hydrotherapy facilities, a steam grotto, restaurants, and direct access to Spiaggia di Citara.

An adult-oriented wellness paradise, with a more contemporary bent, Negombo, provides ample thermal and marine pools, including grottos and those with cascading jets, and even a hammam to leave visitors adequately revived. Ticket holders also have access to chairs and umbrellas on the cordoned-off section of Spiaggia di San Montano.

Venture to Giardini la Mortella, a gorgeous private garden created by Susana Walton, wife of the composer William Walton, to stroll and admire tropical and Mediterranean plants. The lush vegetation and volcanic peaks make Ischia ideal for hiking, whether you’re game for a relatively easy trek with a major visual payoff or a challenge. Intrepid travelers can even summit Mount Epomeo, the highest peak on the island formed by a raised tectonic fault.

While there’s plenty to see and do on land, the most pleasurable way to explore Ischia is by boat. Ascanio Charter has a fleet of vessels, ranging from traditional Gozzos to speed boats. Arranging a private tour allows you to see scenic points of interest, including Castello Aragonese and Punta Imperatore Lighthouse, anchor at sparkling bays for wild swimming and snorkeling, and stop for lunch at one of the seaside restaurants.

How to Get to Ischia

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As with most islands, especially small ones without airports, Ischia is accessible by sea. Hydrofoil connects Ischia Porto to Beverello in Naples. The journey takes about 55 minutes. During peak season, ferries also run from Capri, Amalfi, and Sorrento. Many charter companies operate direct private transfers to destinations in Campania. It’s a pleasant way to skip the hot, crowded ports and get vacation started that much sooner.

How to Get Around Ischia

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Depending on how much exploring you plan to do, it’s advantageous to rent a car or Vespa. The former allows you to pack the trunk for a full day at the beach and helps transport luggage if necessary. It’s also a better choice if you’re vacationing with children or older travelers. The latter gives off carefree Italian vacation vibes.

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Holiday goers content with hanging around the property and perhaps doing a day at one of the thermal parks and a boat excursion might be content without a vehicle, as all the five-star stays will arrange transportation and taxis are available.

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