I Sailed Ritz-Carlton's New Superyacht Before Kendall Jenner. Here Are My Thoughts.

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Is the jet set ready for the cruising life? To judge from the barrage of VIP selfies emanating from the Luminara, they are definitely on board. Just days before celebrity selfies lit up social media—Martha Stewart in a caftan, Kendall Jenner dancing on deck, Ricky Martin working out—I boarded a preview cruise in Barcelona.

I’d been invited on a preview sail from Barcelona to Rome, along with over 400 guests, a glamorous group of influencers, travel pros and journalists—not to mention Queer Eye’s Antoni Porowski, chef Michael Mina, and Bridgerton actress Simone Ashley, who was there as “godmother” of the ship to preside over its christening. Luminara is the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection’s third launch in as many years, part of a growing wave that includes upcoming ships from Four Seasons, Aman Resorts, and Orient Express.

ELLE Decor arrives on deck. Ingrid Abramovitch

Every room is a suite.

Full disclosure: I’d never been on a cruise ship before, let alone a superyacht. That’s typical, according to Tina Edmundson, president of luxury at Marriott International. “Fifty percent of those who sail with us are first-time cruisers,” she told me one morning in the Art Bar, a light-filled lounge on the top deck featuring marble sculptures of Greek goddesses and offering bow view sightlines out to the horizon. “We want this to feel like a Ritz-Carlton—just at sea.”

One of the ship’s residential suites. SCOTT CLARK

On embarkation day, I arrived at Barcelona’s marina terminal and got my first glimpse of the Luminara, a massive and gleaming navy-and-white vessel with an eye-catching (and comforting) fleet of attached neon-yellow lifeboats. On board, my cabin was the first surprise. Forget portholes—my suite had a living area, walk-in closets, luxury bedding, and a marble bathroom with a soaking tub. Every one of the 226 cabins on the 794-foot ship is a suite—and they all have a private terrace for sea-gazing by day and stargazing by night.

There are 5 restaurants and 7 bars (but no buffet).

The food at Michael Mina’s Beach House. Ingrid Abramovitch

On the first day, I had lunch at Beach House, featuring Middle Eastern cuisine by Michael Mina, the celebrity chef who was on board signing copies of his latest cookbook, My Egypt: Cooking from My Roots. I dined on the terrace, where the caned seating overlooks one of the ship’s two pools. With meals included, we made our way through several of the Luminara’s five restaurants, including Haesu Bit, where the Asian menu ranges from sushi to wagyu, and Seta su Luminara, where the Italian-inspired eight-course tasting menu is by Michelin-starred Fabio Trabocchi, who was also in residence.

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The décor of these spaces, along with the ship’s seven bars, spa, and suites, was led by Toronto-based Tatiana Sheveleva of Chapi Chapo Design. Each space feels distinct, but the overall vibe is light, hot, and luxe. Much of the furniture—from the numerous swivel chairs to the indoor and outdoor sectionals—was sourced on a buying spree at last year’s Milan Design Week from Salone super brands like Molteni, Minotti, Poltrona Frau, and Roche Bobois.

Wandering from spa to upper deck, I wondered: How does this differ from a traditional cruise? It’s smaller, but much of the difference comes down to branding: Ritz-Carlton is hoping that a clientele that wouldn’t be caught dead on a “cruise” will fall for the fantasy of sailing the seas aboard your billionaire friend’s private boat. Like David Geffen’s Rising Sun, Luminara has a gym, wine vault, and a floating platform for kayaking or sea dips.

With a Miro and a Matisse, it's like a museum on deck.

A Joan Miro work on board the Luminara. Ingrid Abramovitch

But does the average superyacht have an art collection featuring a Matisse, Calder, Warhol and Hockney? “We really wanted to elevate the space,” says Alejandra Obergon, director of architecture and hotel design for the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection. “We know that our guests know art.”

One afternoon she led a tour of the 731-piece collection, a mix of works acquired at auction and ones commissioned specially for the Luminara. In the vessel’s lounge-like “living room,” she pointed out a tapestry by Joan Miró, an enigmatic work by Gerhard Richter, and an aquatic-themed canvas by Alexis Rockman. In the barber shop, she noted Philippe Halsman’s iconic image of Mohammed Ali. For the stair hall, an artist was commissioned to weave a seven-story fiber sculpture resembling a constellation of islands.

Every guest was sent a party theme and a dress code.

Dancers aboard the deck of the Luminara. Ingrid Abramovitch

Before the trip, the Ritz-Carlton team sent me instructions on what to expect during my voyage. There would be mini-facials by the 111Skin team, pilates classes with the model Sanne Vloet, and a ribbon cutting for the ship's boutique, which sells jewels and watches by brands like Cartier and Piaget. There was also a section entitled "Attire Information" which helpfully provided click-through "inspiration boards" with outfit ideas for evening events.

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Each night had its own theme: for the ship's christening, it was Mediterranean Mosaic and the dress code was "breezy linen and printed fabrics in sunwashed hues like burnt sienna, amber, champagne, ivory and seafoam." Another night, Cosmic Soirée, suggested sparkling blue and deep cosmic navy mixed with shimmering metallics, while the final evening's dress code—"En Blanc"—specified monochromatic white.

For the christening, Luminara was blessed by a priest from the Barcelona apostleship of Stella Maris, the Catholic seafarers’ ministry, before champagne was popped and a dance band performed late into the night. An event team from New York's Birch Event Design was on board with thousands of blooms—most sourced locally in Barcelona—creating massive displays keyed to each color theme and refreshed twice a day.

On the trip's second day, the ship docked in Mallorca and guests embarked on excursions, from a helicopter tour of the island to a trip to a 400-year-old olive orchard via vintage Jeeps. Back on board, there were massages, pool dips, and after parties. Everyone gasped when the ship glided at sunset through the Strait of Bonifacio that separates the French island of Corsica from Italy’s Sardinia.

The ship is blessed. Ingrid Abramovitch

Ricky Martin is a fan.

On July 3, the new ship will usher its first paying guests on board for its maiden voyage, setting sail from Monaco to Rome. After a Mediterranean season, it heads to South Africa, Mauritius, Japan and Singapore by year’s end.

Sunset on the Luminara. Ingrid Abramovitch

It was a letdown to disembark in Rome and return to my life as a landlubber—especially when I realized that the Luminara’s newest guests, including Colman Domingo, Naomi Campbell, and Orlando Bloom, were being serenaded by Sting and partying to tunes spun by Janelle Monae. But as a very buff Ricky Martin posted on his Instagram as he was escorted off the Luminara: Those were “amazing days at sea!”